Greenland’s Ittoqqortoormiit is situated 800 kilometers from the nearest town, with ice covering the region year-round. This remote destination draws adventurous travelers and photographers eager to capture the elusive “ghosts of the Arctic.”
Commonly known as “the most remote place on Earth” and “the end of the world,” Ittoqqortoormiit, situated on Greenland Island, is a small village with a population of 370 residents. The village is characterized by its brightly painted houses and its position between Northeast Greenland National Park, the largest national park globally, and Scoresby Sund, the world’s largest fjord system. The local community primarily engages in hunting, with polar bear skins frequently seen hanging from the frames of many homes.
BBC journalist Kevin Hall embarked on a winter expedition to Ittoqqortoormiit with three photographers to document life in the village. Local guides Åge Danielsen and Manasse Tuko led the group, offering insights into the village’s unique way of life.
Ittoqqortoormiit and its surroundings are dominated by snow and ice, accessible only by plane or, during the summer, by boat or snowmobile.
Perched above the Arctic Circle, Ittoqqortoormiit is a vast, icy wilderness. Visitors can explore the entire village in about 30 minutes on foot. Despite its small size, Ittoqqortoormiit features essential amenities, including a church, a police station, a bar, a guesthouse, a helicopter landing site, a supermarket supplied by two seasonal ships, and a small travel agency. Hall was struck by the high cost of goods and wondered how locals could afford such prices, given their modest incomes.
The area surrounding Ittoqqortoormiit is a haven for polar bears, musk oxen, and millions of seabirds that nest on the icebergs. The village is blanketed in snow and ice for nine months of the year, with the Inuit population, known for their resilience to extreme cold, making up the majority of residents.
In 2025, the village will celebrate its 100th anniversary. However, like many remote regions, Ittoqqortoormiit faces a declining population as young people migrate to larger cities for education and employment. Additionally, the community is grappling with the effects of climate change, as the ice forms later and melts earlier, disrupting the traditional lifestyle of the indigenous people.
After flying from Reykjavík, Iceland, Hall and his companions arrived at Nerlerit Inaat Airport, 40 kilometers from Ittoqqortoormiit. They camped in small tents near the airport on their first night, enduring temperatures as low as minus 30 degrees Celsius. To prepare a simple dinner, the local guides sawed frozen cod on the ice and melted snow into water to boil the fish. Unaccustomed to such harsh conditions, Hall experienced severe leg cramps.
Over the next six days, the group traveled 25 kilometers daily by sled, pulled by 12 large huskies. One of Hall’s most unforgettable experiences was traveling at 45 kilometers per hour through a snowstorm, with winds reaching 80 kilometers per hour.
One morning, after warming bread over the fire, guide Danielsen pointed towards the western mountains. The group spotted four musk oxen, each weighing up to 400 kilograms, standing on the slope, their long, dark hair blowing in the wind. Hall described the scene as both majestic and reminiscent of a painting.
The group approached the musk oxen cautiously, aware that while shy, these animals could become aggressive if threatened. Moving too quickly could cause them to flee, but getting too close could provoke an attack.
On the third day, Danielsen invited the group to stay at his hut for two nights. His small, bright blue hut, ideally situated for polar bear hunting, was modest, containing only a sofa, chairs, a sink, a stove, and hunting gear suspended from the ceiling. A professional hunter by trade, Danielsen supplemented his income as a guide. According to local law, hunters are not permitted to sell the meat or hides from their catches, which are instead used to provide food and clothing for the village families. Hunting runs deep in Danielsen’s family, and he hopes his youngest son will continue the tradition.
As the group traveled further east, they marveled at the pristine landscape, with sunlight illuminating the blue icebergs. On clear autumn and winter nights, free from light pollution, visitors can enjoy breathtaking views of the Northern Lights.
After five days of travel, the group arrived at Kap Hope, a settlement 14 kilometers west of the village, where they had the opportunity to photograph polar bears. The next morning, Danielsen excitedly spotted a polar bear in the distance, but despite the group’s best efforts, they were unable to get close enough for photographs.
In recent years, Ittoqqortoormiit has promoted itself as a destination for adventurers, offering icebreaker tours, hikes across the tundra, and an opportunity to explore one of the world’s most isolated regions. Despite not capturing the elusive polar bear on camera, Hall gained valuable insights into how the village’s resilient residents survive in one of the most remote places on Earth.